January 6th Compass Cay and Staniel Cay
24 15.321 -76 30.852
So, we have had some limited internet connection in the places we have been, but for some reason the connection would not let us connect to the server to update the site. Betty left a week ago from Staniel cay, and she was nice enough to let Rich stay and extra week. In the typical cruising mentality, our original destination changed a few times, and we ended up in George Town, the cruising mecca of the Exumas.
But first, after working our way south to Staniel Cay we stopped by Big Majors Cay and went to visit the resident pigs. As we approached shore, we soon realized that these were not the cute little piglets we had anticipated, but they seemed friendly enough. Next, they came snorting there way out to the dink looking for a meal and even climbing up onto the side! We landed the dink and all still seemed well as Samson mingled amongst them until... maybe the excitment of the meal got to them or they had a "Jeckle and Hyde" moment, but next thing we knew they were surrounding Samson in an aggressive way. Rich quickly retreated down the beach with Samson as the girls and I worked our way through the pushy pigs, who were trying to get some food out of us and instead each got a couple of light bites to our legs. As we retreated to sea in the dink, they turned there attention to Rich and Samson. Samson was happy to be lifted to saftey by Rich as the pigs surrounded them. Then they were both able to flee and hop into the dink to retreat to the saftey of the mother ship. Back on board Cool Breeze, with the excitment and imminent danger gone, we looked back at all the pictures we snapped in the commotion and all got a good laugh out of the porcine experience.
Next, we moved anchorage next to the famous Thunderball Grotto where scenes from a James Bond film and from the movie Splash were filmed. Rich, Mark, Samson, and Liesel motored over on the dinghy equipped with snorkle gear and a camera. The grotto was small but nonetheless impressive. Some holes in the rock ceiling allowed sunlight to filter in and light up patches of the azul waters below. Mark fed the numerous, colorful fish with bread he had tucked into his wetsuit creating an impressive underwater display. Meanwhile Samson doggy-paddled his way around sometimes confusing which snorkels belonged to his family.
A couple of days later, Rich put Betty on a plane smaller than she would prefer as she had to be at work that week, and we pulled hook and headed north about 10 miles to Compass Cay: a very nice anchorage and marina with a dock big enough for a couple of mega yachts and a few sailboats. Navigating our way through the most challenging approach of the trip, we made it to a well-protected anchorage and set out on the dink to go see the famous nurse sharks of Compass Cay. Hearing the putter of our outboard, six nurse sharks came looking for food and swimming right up to the dink. After joking about feeding Samson to the nurse sharks (which are not predators), we went back to the dink to ride out the strong northern blow that was coming for the next couple of nights. The next day we moved the boat through another narrow unmarked channel that only had enough depth for us at high tide. We were wanting to head out the next morning at first light and of course it was going to be low tide and this route was inpassible for our 6.6ft draft at low tide. Rich and I explored the channel with the dink and took some soundings and waypoints in a cove that looked like it would be a anchorage for the night. After moving the boat, we went snorkeling in the cold strong winds that were now blowing from the north making it a bitter 60deg out. After checking out some great coral, we took turns towing each other with the dink over some shallow grassy areas in search of conch. It wasn't long before we were throwing back the small ones and made our way to the boat with four large tasty conch. We got out of our cold wetsuits and started chiselling away at our dinner for the night as we watched one of the best sunsets of the trip.
January 1st New Years day Warderick Wells
24 23.877 -76 37.995
We arrived in Warderick Wells, picked up a mooring ball, and went to a New Year's Eve party at the beach hosted by the Exumas Land and Sea Park that night. We partied with all the other cruisers and the park warden, eating hamburgers and hot dogs, drinking, and sharing stories late into the night; all happy to be in such a beautiful place to ring in the new year. Today, Rich and I went diving while the girls went hiking around the island. After diving we went out in search of the girls and hiked up Boo Boo hill, the highest point on the island. Arriving at the summit, we realized why the term take your breath away was created; the glitter of the amazingly blue and turquoise waters with it's natural channel had created a perfect anchorage. Such a setting will never be forgotten by any of us, including Samson. Speeking of Samson, he got to chase around hutia all day on the beaches. Hutia are a gopher-sized rodent that inhabit the island in large numbers thanks to a re-population by transplantation project. Saturday we head out for Staniel Cay for Betty's last day in the Exumas. Check back for all the highlights of Staniel.
December 31st New Years Eve, another day in paradise.
With the arrival of Rich and Betty (R & B) and the departure of the boat from the big city to the deserted islands, we haven't been updating the site. However, now with a full load of provisions and everyone on board, we're island hopping our way South through uncrowded anchorages and footprintless beaches.
We departed Nassau on a sunny Monday morning and after slipping in between two mega yachts to buy water at 20 cents a gallon, we set out on a all day downwind sail for Allen's Cay in the northern Exumas. After dropping in hook in a crowded anchorage, we dinked over to a rocky beach where iguanas are know to live. With no iguanas in sight, we headed back for dinner and celebratory drinks. The next morning R&B headed over to a beach and got chased around by some large hungry lizards expecting food from their primary source of meals, humans. We couldn't stay long as we had all the best stops of the Exumas ahead of us .
After a pleasent 10 mile sail further south, we arrived at Normas Cay; likely the most famous, or imfamous, island of the Exumas. Normans Cay was the central location of a 1980's drug smuggling ring. Half of the island was purchased and planes and boats brought cocaine and marijuana through this cay on it's way to the US. All made possible through payoffs and corruption to the highest level of the Bahamian goverment and communities. A drug smuggling plane lays in shallow water just yards from our anchorage harboring nurse sharks, sting rays and a wide variety of coral. Toady the island is a stopover point for some of the world's richest on their mega yachts as well as the budget-minded adventuring cruiser alike. 24 35.604 -76 48.590
December 22nd, Nassau update
We are anchored between Nassau on the island of New Providence and Paradise Island, the location of the famous Atlantis Resort. Liesel, Mike and I have been enjoying Nassau and all of its commercialism as we can get just about every grocery item or boat part we need. I must say as much as we enjoy hanging out and relaxing we are starting to enjoy the housekeeping projects just as much since we have been stationary for a couple of weeks now. Richard is bringing some much needed water pump parts as we have been without water pressure for a week or so now and have been using the foot pump for our water. We made our first fried cracked conch tonight, and it was amazing. Funny thing about conch, you can buy a conch from a fisherman and have him clean, skin and bruise it for $2 total, but to get it at any food stand in the bahamas it cost at least $9. We stocked up on some lobster tails, 8 for $20, and look forward to eating as much seafood as we can when Rich and Betty show up this weekend. We have one day after they arrive to provision and prep the boat for Exumas. There's not much in Exumas as far as restaurants, so we must bring everything with us for our meals. In the meantime, Christmas was greeted with a meal of lobster, conch, and hogfish. And, though we don't normally observe Boxing Day, it is the day that Junkanoo is celebrated in the Bahamas. The history of the celebration is unclear, but it is celebrated similarly to Mardi Gras with parades and elaborately handmade, brightly colored costumes. The celebration traditionally starts around 2am on the 26th, so we set our alarm accordingly and enjoyed the costumes, music, and culture of the Bahamas in the wee hours. Though, we lasted until about 6am. For now, be aware that internet will be very sparce from here on out, but I will make it a point to continue to update the website and make videos and the upload it all when we get some internet. I have had positive feedback on the links to the slideshows and will continue to add to the posts. I have also had suggestions to announce our planned stops so others can make arrangements to fly down. Remember, you are all welcome to vist for a bit and enjoy the cruising life for yourself. We plan to be in the Exumas and Georgetown until mid February, then head to Jamaica around the end of February. If you want some experience on a bluewater passage, we have one crew spot open from Jamaica to Roatan, Honduras which is about 550 miles, ie 5-6 days. Then Roatan and Rio Dulce until about April when we will jump to Belize.
Mike will soon be venturing off on his own and even heading home, likely until the Jamaica crossing.
Liesel writes:
My brother's (Richard, Dr. Persky to you)graduation at the University of Michigan in Ann Arbor, Michigan was soon to pass. So, Mark arranged a flight from our current location to Nassau. And Dad arranged a direct flight from Nassau to Detroit. I packed what long sleeve items I had and boarded the 19 passenger "puddle jumper" for a 10 minute, somewhat nervous ride to Nassau. Then headed to the snowy conditions in Detroit. My sister and her husband arrived shortly after on their flight from Texas. Mom, Dad, and Richard gathered us all up, reunited once again for the holidays. They seem to almost always get everyone together around Christmas, even if just for a little while. While in Michigan, we dined out for all of our meals enjoying things like champagne and paella at Richard's celebratory dinner, and Seoul dogs (a fried bacon wrapped hot dog topped with Kimchea) while shopping in Kerrytown. We also walked a farmer's market with such tempations as fresh pretzels which Mom enjoyed and shared bites of, and hot apple cider that Josh sipped. We were surrounded by snow and beautiful colors of the season. And, we even had the opportunity to exchange some Christmas presents while we sipped beer chilled down by the snow outside of the room. Richard's graduation was rather enjoyable and memorable. Seeing him walk across the stage was a very proud moment for us all. Mom still couldn't believe it was happening even at the time. And, afterwards we saw Kirk and Lori, my aunt and uncle, off with a delicious German meal at Mezger's. I had the rouladen with beet salad, some beer Dad helped me pick out, as well as more than my fair share of pumpernickel bread! Then, on top of all the eating out and other shopping, my parents and Rich helped me with my grocery list of items to take back to the boat in attempts to cheat some higher prices in the Bahamas. (Since I've been back with my spoils we've been enjoying things like pancakes and a much more extensive spice selection.) So, my last night there we randomly went to the mall to browse at the winter coats. Then serendipity! I ran into my good friend and former classmate Elane Urbano. I think we were both awe struck. I knew she lived in Ann Arbor but hadn't been able to contact her because of issues with the screen on my phone. We were able to meet up later that evening and just in time because we were both flying out the next day. She lavished me with gifts, snacks, and good conversation. Such a sweetie peetie. And, despite the lateness of the hour, she even drove me to meet here main squeeze, Kevin. Then we all packed up and saddenly went our own ways: Mom and Dad to Austin greeted by temps. in the 70's (at the time) and me to turquoise water and temps. in the 80's. It was all so fleeting but still too perfect.
December 21st Nassau harbor
While sailing past a Carnival cruise ship, we entered the bustling harbor of Nassau. It was a drastic difference from the tiny village of Morgan's Bluff; a commercial dock with a bar where all the deliveries came in and water shipped out to Nassau. With million dollar boats motoring around, we anchored in the Nassau channel across from the famous Atlantis water resort and aquarium amongst the most anchored boats we've seen since Boot key harbor in Florida. Here we will stay for Christmas and await the arrival of Richard and Betty for their first trip to the boat out of the country. After they arrive, we should have fair weather to head down to the Exumas which are said to be the gem of the Bahamas with hundreds of nearly uninhabited small islands with amazing beaches and world class snorkeling. I have been dreaming about the Exumas for many years, and I'm stoked that Rich and Betty are going to be able to discover and explore it with us for the first time. It couldn't be a better place for their first of many times down to the boat. Mike is heading off to travel around via mail boat through the Bahamas and I'm sure sure we'll run into him on our way south or in Georgetown.
December 14th - 21st Morgan's Bluff Andros
We spent a whole week in the northern most settlement of the largest, and sparsely populated, island of Andros. After spending the first night at the anchorage out of the harbor we decided to go into the commercial harbor area and tie up via med moor to a rock out-cropping in anticipation of riding out an unusually strong northern that would come in at the end of the week. We came motoring backward toward our spot and Liesel dropped anchor as we slowly backed toward the wall where Mike was waiting in the dink with a line from shore. Looking like professionals, we were soon tied up safely. Not long after, a couple of more boats followed suit as this was the best northern protected spot for over a hundred miles without paying for a marina. With lines and anchors zig-zagged in every direction, we waited out the front in comfort. Being such a small town we were only able to get internet at one place called the Pineville Motel, which is really a great place to travel to if you want excellent sport fishing, duck and boar hunting, beautiful beaches, conch and very little tourist all in one place. We spent the week catching up on boat chores, getting fresh provisions and getting into the slower pace of which cruising is all about. Liesel flew out to Detroit to go to her brothers doctoral graduation and celebrate her Mom's birthday. While she is jet-setting, Mike and I had a very pleasant 38 mile trip to Nassau where Liesel will rejoin us on Tuesday. While in Andros, we met some fellow cruisers heading the same general direction and hope to run into them on a sandy beach somewhere in the Exumas. One of these sailors was an 83 year old single-hander named Michael who has sailed his 30 foot catamaran from the East coast to Georgetown, Exumas every winter for the last 30 years. It's an unbelievable feat for someone of his age considering some days I feel 80 years old after a long day of sailing and boat chores. By the weekend I was anxious to head out of town for a new port and our window finally came on Monday the 21st. With 10-15 knot winds from the North we made the jump from Andros Island to Nassau where we can get some much needed parts for boat projects i'm working on. Nassau will be our last big city until we reach Georgetown as well as our last real full size grocery store and fresh produce for reasonable prices. With pretty much everything coming through Nassau things like hardware, dairy, and produce are more readily available here than in the rest of the islands. Speaking of cost, everything is pretty much twice the price of anything in the states. So, Liesel is flying back with a suitcase of food that combined with what we have onboard should last us until Jamaica or further, we hope.
Even though I have not been able to swim or dive due to my finger I was able to go looking for conch in shallow water with our looking bucket. We found some small conch and came home empty handed, but it was really nice just to get into the water. My finger is healing well, and I expect to be spearing lobster and finding conch in the Exumas in no time.
I put up a shutterfly album of Chub cay, click the link or go to the main page and find your way to it.
December 14th - "Quarter Billion dollar ghost town"
We left bimini just before sundown. It would be another night run over open water that was about 12-20 foot for many miles either direction. We arrived to Chub cay marina mid day and anchored around 5 other boats in water that was deeper than the chart said it was. The guidebook said it was an expensive privately owned island and marina. We got the dink in and headed to check things out. After getting to shore we discover that much was still under construction. We walked around the complex and found some bahamians who informed us that the place went bankrupt and was owned by the bank and all the houses were a million plus. They told us we could use the beach and pool and we hung out in front of the no loitering sign drinking some beers with a couple of fisherman from nassau and soon we had a group of 8 or more all having good conversation while drinking $2.50 beers. I asked why the Heineken were about the same price as the bud lights and Kalik, the local beer. They told us that all the beers were made in nassau even the Guinness and Heineken.
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The next morning we loaded up the dink and motored past the fancy "no boats" buoys lining the beach and set up in the chase loungers in the sand. It wasn't long before some workers came near for what we thought was to run us off. They swept for a couple of minutes while mike made small talk and they told them we were welcome to use the pool. By the time the sun was setting we wouldn't get over the idea of having this 200 foot long infinity pool on a beautiful beach with a swim up palapa bar totally abandoned by american sun bathers. In the giant marina there were about 5 big dollar sport fishing boats with crews on them just stopping through.
The next morning we picked up anchor and headed around the point about 4 miles to an anchorage near one of the two restraints on the island, The Berry Islands club marina, which had a large dock for the fuel boat that supplies the island and one building built in the 50's by an american with a converted bar in the living room that overlooked the water. We had drinks and dinner into the night with a few locals and decided to head out the next morning for the island of Andros, the largest island in the bahamas but also very unpopulated and famous for they're pink grapefruits which are exported all over the world.
Addition to crossing:
I forgot to talk about the high speed boat in the dark. After we departed Rodriguez Key in the middle of the night, we were in the Hawk channel and suddenly we hear a boat running fast and I realized it sounded close. I looked around as hard as I could but it was a real dark night and I saw nothing. I joked about drug runners and suddenly this boat made a u-turn right on top of us and came to about 10 yards away and blam, running lights, blue lights and spotlight right in the face. It was customs and border patrol. I got on the radio but they would not reply, instead they came close enough to holler. Asked us the usual where from and where to stuff and them some and then they just followed right next us then finally said have a good trip and took off. Almost gave me a heart attack coming up so fast like that, it was about a 30 something center console with 3 engines.
December 10th - Bimini at last
This morning started out rough as I realized the head went out and would need a rebuild. About 11AM, with a grumpy captain and a properly working head we headed to shore for some much needed sore leave. After wondering up probably the only hill in the bahamas we saw what we have been waiting and working for over the last year. blue blue water, cheap seafood and a happy crew. After taking some local advise we ended up at Lala's for what was said to be the best conch in the Bahamas. We walked in and asked her if this was true and she replied with, "honey its so good you'll eat your finger off," I then held up my finger and said "I think I've been here before." After her shock and awe she cooked us what really was the best and only non-rubbery conch we have ever had. The secret she say's, "beat the hell outa it with-a mallet." Tonight we sail with what should be great conditions over the Bahama bank to the Berry islands - Chub cay and Frazers Hog cay. Check back in a couple of days!
December 9th- Rodriguez Key to Bimini, Bahamas
Liesel writes: The Gulf crossing went well with good winds. Although we were "sailing to weather", the trip wasn't too rough and we were going 7-8knots the whole way. So, here we are. Bimini at last! We can see the anchor on the sea floor throught the clear water for the first of many times. After we got settled with customs, Mark decided to make hamburger helper for his hungry and weary crew. Fortunately, a boat of locals soon approached offering five big, spiny lobsters for $20. After stuffing ourselves with our delicious purchase, we devised a plan to take advantage of the weather and head to the Berry Islands at the first window of opportunity.
December 8th - Boot Key to Rodriguez Key
I put a video log up for the first time and you will likely see more of them. If you check the website from work then start sneaking headphones in. We had some engine issues yesterday but all is well now and hopefully in the future. Tonight is the big gulf stream crossing!
December 6th - "Preparations for Departure!"
Today is about 68, sunny and moderate wind. The cold front FINALLY came in last night bringing heavy rain and lots of wind. Today all the cruisers are complaining about how cold it is and how they need to get further south so they don't have to wear long sleeves anymore. Im still in boardshorts so I cant complain. Last couple of days some important things have happened. First thing we got our care package from Richard with the autopilot head and I immediatly went to work getting it hooked up and once again we have autopilot!! The second vital thing we were waiting on was the lewmar part (notice how the replacment part is solid stainless), which arrived Sat. I spent a good part of the day splicing our secondary anchor chain to the line so it can go through the windlass and its now our primary rode. I also spliced some 3/4" hawser lines to be used as bridals for anchoring in heavy weather, clearly some good lessons where learned in this incident and I plan to be ready for the next 35kt blow at anchor. Right now Liesel is cleaning the fridge and we are about to head out for our last USA grocery run for a while. In the morning we have to fill our diesel and freshwater tanks as well as pump out our holding tank and by 10AM or so I figure mike will come wandering up from Key West just in time to drop lines and head to Rodriguez cay or long cay, near Key Largo.
As far as the anchor goes we thought it might be years, or never, till we saw it again but our new cruising friends that we met in Fort Myers, Garry and Shirlene on s/v ZIPadedoda are heading south in a couple of weeks and are going to try to find the anchor and chain. Regardless, were looking forward to meeting up with them in the Exumas so you'll hear more of them in the future.
Weather for the crossing is still looking good, Tuesday is East at 11mph and Tuesday night is SE 11 mph for the the crossing. We plan to head into Alice Town, Bimini and spend a day or so then off to Chub cay in the Berry Islands. Right now there are favorable winds for sailing East (the direction were trying to get) through Friday night so we will likely be there for a couple of day before heading off to
Also a story to tell, I was pulling out all of the secondary anchor chain for the splice and what do I find laying down at the bottom of the locker? My finger tip! I put the pictures up on Shutterfly along with the photos from our second manatee sighting so check em out.